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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.